Silk - Ethics & Ecology

 

Through the millennia of captive breeding, the silk moth Bombyx mori has become a blind butterfly that can not fly and only lives a few days. During this time he lays about 400 eggs and dies after four to five days. The moth has no eating tools and can not eat any food. The Seidenzucht occurs mostly in large industrially marked plants. In recent decades, silk has become a mass product without any appreciation. The enormous drop in prices and the concentration on economically efficient large farms have not only damaged quality, but also worsened the growing conditions of silk farmers and polluted the environment.

In the wild collection or Ahimsa method, it is not possible to unwind filaments endlessly, as the cocoons were damaged by the moth or by humans. Thus, only relatively short fibers can be obtained, which must subsequently be spun so that a textile material can be weaved from them. Furthermore, the "Indian" silkworms have in common that their silk threads have a yellowish to brownish color and are also much more irregular. This resulted in the typical wild silk structure.

If the silk fibers are well debased and spun into fine yarns, very soft and non-slip fabrics with interesting textures result. This is reinforced by spinning and weaving techniques of artisanal production, which are difficult to reproduce industrially. Often the three silk types Tussah, Eri and Muga are mixed to vary the fabric properties. Tussah silk fabrics are less shiny, heavier and more "robust" than mulberry silk fabrics.

Ecological and social aspects

If the Seidenzucht is operated as a biological or bio-dynamic agriculture and the appropriate criteria are fulfilled, a certification according to EU 834/2007, the so-called eco-regulation, as "controlled biological animal husbandry" (kbT) can take place. The feed for the caterpillars without herbicides and pesticides and animal husbandry without hormones and the use of other chemical agents. The raw silk extraction, the unwinding and the boil off, must also be kbT compliant.

The processing of raw silk into textile fabrics can then be carried out according to the rules of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the IVN Best certification. With these two quality seals, ecological, sustainable and social parameters are included in the assessment.

The standards set out the list of possible substances that can be used throughout the textile chain, which wastewater qualities must be met, and that fair working conditions must be met. The social parameters are based on the core labor standards of the International Labor Organization (ILO).

Regular quality and residue controls are also mandatory for obtaining one of the two certificates, as well as the complete documentation and traceability of the end product to its origin (traceability). This ensures that consumers have a textile in their hands that has actually been manufactured under fair, ecological and sustainable criteria.

In addition to the incomparable properties and the attractive appearance of natural fiber silk, this means that the wearer or buyer can afford the luxury of an exclusive piece of clothing in good conscience. Whether from organic silk or Ahimsa silk - that may decide the personal taste.